Find answers to common questions about our services, projects, costs, and safety standards.
Vinyl fences we supply are manufactured like vinyl siding, which has a long track record of providing durability and longevity. However, the base ingredient PVC (polyvinyl chloride), is altered to provide for increased superior impact resistance and ultra violet protection. With our fences and proper installation, one can be assured of a fence that will remain aesthetically appealing and structurally sound.
Vinyl fences we supply are warranted against manufacturing defects for the lifetime of the product. See warranty document for additional more specific warranties.
In general, the initial cost of vinyl fencing is higher than other fence styles. However, when compared on the long run, vinyl fencing remains maintenance-free while other fence styles increase in maintenance and repair costs.
Vinyl fences we supply do not use the waste stream as a source. Some other vinyl fences do and it reduces the quality of the products. Our vinyl fences are recyclable and are used when the plastic meets rigid specifications.
Because there are no protruding sharp screws, nails, and splinters, injury is unlikely. The no-taste factor of PVC decreases the likelihood of horse chewing. However, interior post caps are recommended for use with horses.
All the time and with shipping incentives, your fence order could ship for free anywhere in the Continental USA. (different manufacturer’s have different shipping incentives, see your particular style for more information)
Applicable Products: All Styles of ornamental aluminum fence.
Reply: Every style can be different. We use many different manufacturers and widths can vary between styles even among the same manufacturer. Although generally section widths are 6′ wide.
The actual width of a section is usually expressed as the installed width, center to center on the posts. In cases where you are mounting to a wall or column, the installed section width for that section will be less than the rest, because the end rails are slightly longer to slide inside a post. This excess normally is cut off to make the picket widths the same throughout.
Applicable Products: All Styles of ornamental aluminum fence.
Reply: Yes, you can. There are special fittings that get bolted to the column and then the section rail rests in the fitting. The rail is then screwed into the fitting. One fitting is required per rail. Sections can have 2 to 4 rails, depending on height and style.
Every manufacturer uses a different shape of fitting, the rail shapes vary among manufacturers. The names of the fittings also vary among manufacturers. Common names are “rail ends”, “wall mount fittings” or “wall brackets”. Most fencers would know what you mean regardless of its title.
If you choose to use a post, you can. You can concrete it into the ground like the rest of the posts or you can cut the bottom off and bolt it to the wall or column. One such application for using posts is to mount a gate between the columns. Most manufacturers supply hinges and latches made to mount to their posts. Attempting to use that hardware to mount to columns is difficult, if not impossible. Special attention must be made by you and us to coordinate direct column mounting of gates.
Applicable Products: All styles of ornamental aluminum fence.
Reply: First of all, we carry more than one brand of ornamental aluminum fence. Our preferred brands are Jerith and Ideal. Both offer black, white, and bronze as standard colors. Ideal also offers green. Gold is also an option for finials, ball caps, and scrolls.
Applicable Products: All styles of ornamental aluminum fence.
Reply: Absolutely not! The fences are designed to be used as fence only. They have not been tested to be used as railing and therefore not warranted for that use. If your deck is at ground level, consider installing the fence next to it in dirt. Under no circumstances should these fences be used for decks or upper story railings. Here is the Aluminum Railing made specifically for this purpose.
Applicable Products: Chain link fence.
Reply: As you might guess, we are in favor of replacing older chain link fences which have lost their ‘luster’, however I have seen many chain link fences which have been painted. I would guess that it is best to paint them with a sprayer or rollers, though we have no experience with painting fences, only replacing them. As far as the type of paint, we recommend checking with a paint dealer/ specialist for options. Paint and applying paint is not our specialty. There are a few things about galvanized finishes for chain link fences that I will point out though. Many of our customers have inquired about painting them since vinyl posts, framework, and fittings can double project costs. Colored vinyl fabric on galvanized framework is not much more expensive than an all galvanized job, however once one wants the framework coated as well, it often doubles the cost. New galvanized materials should not be painted immediately. Depending on the specific type of material used, much of it has a slight shine or gloss to it. Technically, the shine needs removed before painting in order for paint to adhere properly. This can be done in a few different ways. You may apply an acidic solution to it and a light sanding to prep the material to accept paint or let it naturally weather a few years. We apply a chemical solution to an occasional custom galvanized tubular frame which is then sent to a powder coat facility for custom gates.
Applicable Products: Chain link fence.
Reply: We have always preferred cementing fence posts. However anchors have become quite popular and some are advertised as being stronger than concrete installations. I have not had enough experience with the anchors to offer you experienced advice comparing the two. One option would be our Oz-Post Drive in Post Anchors for Round Posts. Another common option for line posts are the Spade Type Chain Link Fence Post Anchors.
Applicable Products: Chain link fence.
Reply: The proper installation of chain link over such obstacles as you mentioned will depend on a few variables you did not provide details on such as the footage between and over obstacles. If you simply need to span a few feet over a cement of asphalt island/ curb, it is probably easiest to set posts as if those obstacles weren’t there and simple avoid having to set posts in concrete or asphalt. When you stretch the fence, simply trim the bottom of the fence around the obstacles. If the obstacles are larger and you must set posts in them, you most likely want to install terminal posts at the base of each obstacle. These terminal posts will allow you to connect the fence fabric separately for each height. This will provide the flexibility you may need for various heights of fence.
Applicable Products: Chain link fence.
Reply: When stretching a mason line for setting fence posts, do so as low as possible to the ground, approx. 3-5″. Wrap the string around stakes, wood or steel ones work well. This string is used to set the posts in a straight line only. This string is seldom used as a guide for depth of post or the post height. The correct way to set posts to the correct height depends on the styles of fence you are installing. With chain link fence, all posts are typically set in concrete one day; framework and fabric is installed later after the concrete has cured. One will need to make ‘grade marks’ on the posts with a marker. This is the depth marker for setting the posts. With galvanized fabric, make grade marks on terminal posts 2″ taller than the height of fence. Line posts should be set 3″ shorter than the height of fence to be installed. Subtract an extra 1/2″ on line posts if you are stretching vinyl fabric as this has a tendency to shrink in height slightly as it is stretched. Concentrate on one length of fence at a time. Dig holes, fill with cement, and set all posts to these grade marks in the ground. Go to end of fence line and look across the tops of the posts. For uneven grades, you will see that the top of the posts follow the uneven grade since you set all posts equidistant from the ground surface, or grade. Typically one will need to fine tune these heights and this is simply done by sighting in the posts. Since top rail is set on top of the line posts, raise and lower line posts slightly to provide for a smooth transition between each post. Keep in mind anytime you lower a line post below the grade mark, the fence fabric will need trenched and buried. Likewise, the distance between the grade marks and the ground surface is how much space you will have underneath the fence. Often one will bury the fence a little in one spot and fill in under the fence in other spots in order to have the top rail run smoothly.
Applicable Products: Chain link fence.
Reply: Yes we do! We carry two sizes of baseball/softball backstops. One backstop is 12′ high with a 6′ canopy. The other is 16′ high without a canopy. Both are sold as kits and contain all the parts needed to install the backstop. You can find these at this site: Baseball & Softball Fence. We supply everything you need except the tools, concrete and muscle power. Instructions are included online and also come in a PDF format to print out. Assembling a backstop is not a one-person job and not for the meek. See for yourself whether you or your team want to tackle a job this size.
Yes, it does matter if a cedar fence is touching the ground. It will rot prematurely if it is installed this way. A 2″ ground clearance is recommended between the fence and the ground. Additional information may be found here on cedar fence construction by reading about the various styles: Wood Fence
It depends what style of fence you are interested in. All the measurements and specifications are available online for our vinyl and ornamental aluminum fences. For other styles or the occasional style online which does not list its specifications, you may call our 800 number for its measurements. Typically fences are installed 2″ off the ground, variances are not unusual and depend on the particular job application.
It really depends on what type of fence it is, how long you wish it to last, what type of post(s) they are, and how tall and of what material the fence/ gate is made of. Typically yes, fences should have posts which are cemented in the ground. However cedar posts are an exception, temporary fences are typically not cemented, and many chain link fences are installed uncemented and with post flanges/ anchors which serve a similar purpose.
Yes, if the wood is not treated. The pressure treated type of lumber can stand it, but untreated wood will rot quicker. Vines on chain link fence will accelerate the rusting process as well. Never use treated wood around edible vegetables. The treatment can leach into the soil and cause possible contamination of the food.
The depth and diameter of any post hole will depend greatly on the style of fence, the area in the country installed, and other variables such as wind load, and digging conditions. All fence posts should be cemented in the ground below frost level. Check your local frost level and dig deeper by at least 6″. Here in Ohio a typical 6′ high wood fence would have a minimum 9″ diameter x 36″ deep hole. This is assuming that the fence isn’t installed in a swamp with a lot of wind. Southern locations without frost will find this overkill. North of Ohio, installers may go deeper in depth and larger in diameter. A general rule of thumb is to dig the diameter of the hole at least 3-4 times the diameter of the post. For example, if setting 4 x 4 wood posts, dig holes 9-12″ in diameter. Posts should be centered in the hole and the posts should always have concrete under them. Always leave concrete down from grade or the ground surface 3-5″ and back fill with dirt. When the ground freezes, the ground squeezes the concrete footer like a tube of toothpaste and will ‘heave’ the post if you fill the concrete clear to the top of the hole. Filling concrete clear to the top will create a ‘lip’ and water, ice, and snow will gather underneath it. Leaving your concrete level down and backfilling with dirt will help prevent this as well as ‘belling’ the hole. The shape of the hole is as important, if not more important than the depth. Holes should be ‘bell-shaped’, not ‘carrot-shaped’, meaning the bottom of the hole should be larger in diameter than the top. Information and a simple drawing is shown in a few installation manuals online such as the one for cantilever gates found here: Chain Link Cantilever Gate Installation Manual (PDF). Although this isn’t written for wood fence posts, the principle is the same. We also have a wide variety of wood hinges, latches, and specialty hardware. View our hardware index here.
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